London’s calling

The winners of the Editor’s Choice design competition at the International Jewellery London trade show were announced earlier this month.

The competition recognizes designers and suppliers who exhibit “the most creative and cutting-edge jewelry at IJL,” with six winners chosen and an additional two being honored as “highly commended.”

The winners in each category, and their designs, are below.

Diamonds in Design, given to a head-turning diamond piece of jewelry designed in a spirit of celebration to coincide with IJL’s Diamond Jubilee

Sarah Ho’s “Numerati ‘60’”
Ho created two 18-karat rose gold and diamond rings that show the number 60, to honor IJL’s 60th anniversary. The rings are from her new Numerati collection, which offers rings shaped in the numbers one through nine.

In Stile Italiano, a jewelry piece from an Italian exhibitor at IJL evoking Italy’s flair for impeccable craftsmanship and inspirational design

Cesari Diffusione di Simone Cesari’s “Alla Schiava” bracelet
“Alla Schiava” is the ancient name of bracelets that ladies of the Roman Empire used to wear, and this open bracelet is covered with a light blue lizard skin and decorated with 18-karat yellow gold, turquoise and yellow sapphire.

Most Innovative New Collection, five to six pieces from the same collection with the winning collection featured on the IJL runway

Mirka Janeckova Jewellery’s White collection
Porcelain and sterling silver were used for the line, inspired by the meaning of the color white, surrealism and the deep sea.

Visual Impact, a show-stopping piece or collection that photographs well

Fei Liu’s bespoke necklace
This 18-karat white gold necklace offers 45 varying sizes of spherical green tourmaline beads weighing a total of 509 carats, as well as nearly 18 carats of diamonds and 20 carats of garnet. The feather centerpiece can be detached and worn as a large brooch.

Commercial Vision, a piece or collection produced in volume that demonstrates thorough research of the target market and current trends, destined to become a best-seller

Dower & Hall’s Cherish collection
This collection “enables the wearer to tell their own story,” filling lockets with a variety of keepsakes and birthstone charms. Each design is offered in 18-karat yellow or rose gold vermeil, sterling silver or 9-carat yellow gold with diamond pavé.

Technical Excellence, a piece or collection that is worked with technical innovation or a rarely used technique

Andrew Geoghegan’s “Renaissance” ring
When viewed from the top, this ring looks like a cluster. When rotated, the center claws appear to travel through the surround setting, morph into the shank and flow seamlessly into the surround setting, “representing a highly complicated skilled feat in terms of CAD, goldsmithing and the setting of the surround stones.”

Highly Commended

DDonna by Ruggero Broggian’s Butterfly collection
Made in 18-karat white, yellow and pink gold with diamonds and pink, yellow and blue sapphires, the butterfly pieces are inspired by the everyday shapes found in nature.

Highly Commended

Flora Bhattacharay’s “Jyamiti” rings
These designs were developed from exploring how Islamic pattern could work in 3-D. The Zig Zag ring offers hand-carved amethyst set in 18-karat gold and a black peacock pearl, while the Floral ring is made of a rock crystal carving with a brilliant-cut diamond.